Madalyn Morgan's Writing Blog: Islington Gazette 140th ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL 1996

Islington Gazette 140th ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL 1996

Islington Gazette

140th ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL – Thursday 10th October 1996

A NEW BEGINNING FOR SMITHFIELD…

By Madalyn Morgan

Pitchers and Bummarees – trades that have served the world-famous meat market for centuries are on the way out as modern technology advances.

Smithfield, the world famous meat market originally named Smooth-fields a thousand years ago and now called the Central Meat Market, has survived the Plague, the Great Fire of London and the Blitz, but will it survive its transformation into the 21st Century? Yes, it will, but without its army of traditional porters known as “Bummarees” who, in true Smithfield tradition have pulled the laden barrows of fresh meat for the butchers and buyers who come from all over London, the South East and often from as far away as the Midlands.

Harry Moore who has been a Bummaree for 22 years invited me to spend a morning with him, in the hustle and bustle of Smithfield market before the imminent necessary modernisation programme changes its character for ever.

I first met Harry in July of last year when he was one of 89 Bummarees. Just twelve months later their numbers were down to 60 and falling, while the Governors, or shop owners, prepared for the complete phasing out of the traditional porter service that has been a part of Smithfield market since it was built in 1868.

I arranged to meet Harry in the nearby Cock Tavern, named because it was built on a site where cock fighting was held many years ago. The pub has always been the traditional meeting place for porters to wait for customers.

Photographs around the walls of this hostelry tell the stories of days long gone. There are photographs of porters sitting drinking “Wazzer” (hot tea with a shot of whisky to keep out the cold) - these days it’s soda water with lime. ‘It’s good for you,’ Harry told me cheerily, ‘stops you from dehydrating.’

My tour of Smithfield started in The General Market, fondly known as the Village. Harry is very popular, and in true Smithfield fashion we received friendly greetings from every stall holder that we passed - as well as from two of the market policemen while we walked down Central Avenue towards the Poultry market. That’s where I met the Pearly King of Smithfield market

Roy “Yorkie” Yorke is a shop worker and fork-lift driver who, in his spare time and when he isn’t being persuaded to appear in films, works for charity.

As The Pearly King, Yorkie puts on his pearly suit and helps to raise much- needed money for a variety of charities, including Leukaemia Research.

I asked Yorkie how he found the time with such an early start to his busy day and he replied modestly, ‘Oh I don’t know, I just love to see children happy.’ Then he admitted that it can be hard work, especially if he has to spend too long in his pearly suit - the jacket alone weighs 23 pounds because of the thousands of pearl buttons.

Yorkie Yorke. Pearly King of Smithfield market

The poultry market was in full swing. Butchers of all nationalities were buying for shops, hotels and restaurants - a complete contrast to the almost empty West market which, but for one brightly-lit stall, was in complete darkness.

As soon as the last stall is relocated, 18 months of restoration work will start to modernise the West market and so bring it up to the standard of the newly refurbished East market which cost an estimated £39 million.
The modern design of the interior now complies with EEC hygiene regulations, and with the latest technology, Smithfield will be one of the most advanced markets in Europe.

The Grade Two Victorian building, overlooked by St. Bartholomew’s Church and a stone’s throw from The Old Bailey, has been restored to its former glory. Every thing has been done to complement the original structure built 128 years ago.

The Central market & Grande Avenue

Workers in Smithfield Market

The famous clock at the heart of the market since 1870 has been renovated and the colourful ironwork restored - most noticeably the iron gates at Buyers’ Walk which stand 25 feet high and have been painted in their original colours of pink, blue, purple, red and green. It’s truly a sight worth seeing, but while the outside of the building has not lost any character, the inside certainly has - in its workers.

After a lifetime as a loyal member of the Transport & General Workers’ Union, it is not surprising that Harry, like many of the other Bummarees and Pitchers, feels let down. “Sold down the river” was one expression used.
Of course Smithfield has to be modernised and brought up to the EEC hygiene standards, and it’s obvious that no business can survive today unless it’s cost effective - but what is the cost? The cost is the colourful characters on the market floor. The familiar sound of their barrows rattling down the avenues. And hundreds of years of tradition. The Pitchers and Bummarees of Smithfield market will be history. It is the end of an era.